Trans-Fi Audio

THE TERMINATOR TONEARM

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This tonearm is aimed at enthusiasts that are experienced with setting up the various components in a hifi system. If you are a novice, unfamiliar with VTF & VTA, this is not for you! 

 

Mounting

Playing a Record

Trouble Shooting Guide

Setting Up Air Supply

Dimensions

Nomenclature

note: pictures may differ in this manual from your product which will encorporate the latest updates.

Mounting the Terminator is fairly simple. It is usually positioned using existing mounting hole & lined up with the back edge of the plinth.  If your plinth isn't square, use a virtual line that represents the back edge!

 

Mounting to deck

If you have no hole for a pivot arm in your plinth, one needs to be drilled anywhere in the yellow box shown in this diagram. It needs to take an M6 bolt, so a 6.5mm hole will do. It needs to be drilled perpendicular, so a bench drill is essential.

Note: If the existing hole on your deck does not line up with the yellow box an adaptor plate can be provided!

 

You will be provided with a custom made mounting column needed to bring the stylus roughly in line with the record surface. Bolt the mounting plate with arm assembly loosely to the plinth:

Terminator is bolted to the deck using the supplied parts as shown in the diagram below. You may or may not be supplied with the spacer, depending on how large the mounting hole is. You may only be supplied with washers. Use the washers on top of mounting column if height needs adjusting, but it may not be necessary to use them. If not needed, you may use them as extra support on the nut end.

Use the appropriate bracket slot so that the carrier is about half way over the disc. 

 Keep bolt finger tight at this stage until you set the lateral position.

Note: This position is not critical & a few centimeters either way will not make alot of difference!

UPDATE: The T3 mounting bracket has an extra slot to accomodate a wider range of turntable mounting points. It also allows the manifold to be positioned closer to the center of the record allowing for a shorter effective wand length. This appears to improve dynamics. I am currently running lengths of 50mm of exposed carbon rod with positive results.

 

Setting Lateral Position

Slide carrier in slot so that second air-hole lines up with platter spindle:

 

Check the carrier remains parallel to the back edge of the plinth by eyeballing it so it looks right.  Once this is done you can clamp the M6 bolt tight.

 

Setting Wand Length & Azimuth (quick method)

Mount an old cartridge to the wand.

You need to remove wand & loosen bearing grub-screw enough so you can slide wand with some resistance. Mind the wires!

Replace wand on straps. Ensure blade is fully seated. Line up the stylus tip with the center of the record spindle by adjusting the wand length. Note the cartridge end of the wand will need to be supported by hand as the cueing device does not extend this far.

 

At the same time, adjust the azimuth by ensuring the cartridge body is square with the surface of the record when viewed from the front.

Once correctly aligned, you can do up the grubscrew so everything is snug. No need to overtighten!

Note 1: No responsibility is taken for operator error if you damage your stylus in this procedure. If unsure, it is recommended you keep the stylus guard protector in place or use an old dispensable cartridge!

Note 2: This is a quick method to get you up & running, but may be between 0.8-2mm out depending on spindle height. A more accurate & time consuming method to set wand length would be to use the HFN template or an old record with a line scored through its diameter.

Using the roughly set up stylus as a guide, initially rotate the platter so the score line is the same distance from the stylus at the start & end of the record. It should be slighty over the line. Wedge the platter in this position & adjust the wand length so the stylus just contacts the line  consistently along its travel. You now have perfect tangentiality!

 

Setting Tracking Weight

I use digital scales for this. Tracking weight is set as a pivot arm….loosen the counterweight grub-screw & screw the weight in or out. The weight should be back far enough so it won’t foul arm-lifter bar. If there is a problem with your particular setup, please contact me. 2 different counterweights are supplied as standard. A lighter or heavier weight can be specially provided.

 

Setting VTA & Carrier Tilt T1 & T2

Note: For this stage we are assuming your turntable is already set up & perfectly level.

Ensure all 2 thumbscrews at the side are loose & pivot screw has enough play in it to allow free movement of carrier assembly. The exact VTA will depend on adjustment of all 3 thumbscrews working together. Screwing the top thumbscrew raises & lowers the carrier, but also tilting will affect VTA.

Initially, set level by plugging in air supply with pump set half way (see below) & letting saddle float freely with no wand. Adjust so it remains roughly stationary using only the uppermost side thumbscrew. Ensure the lower sidescrew remains slack

Replace wand & adjust top thumbscrew until required VTA is reached. Check saddle is still level by momentarily lifting wand off straps. If its not, tweak upper side screw again. You can bring the bottom thumbscrew into play at this stage. You will find very minute tweaks from all 3 thumbscrews will be necessary to take up play & level the carrier. At no stage should the thumbscrews be forced!

It sounds complicated, but once you get a feel for the controls its very fast & easy. When everything is set up properly, the 3 thumbscrews will be tensioned together holding the carrier firm. To settle this position, the pivot screw can now be tightened.

Bear in mind if further adjustments are required, this will need to be slackened off.

 

Setting VTA & Carrier Tilt T3

With the T3 update, the leveling functions & VTA adjustments operate independantly from each other, so once the level adjustment has been set, it no longer needs to be altered.

This is especially useful for dialing in the VTA, where making a note of the calibration marks can give you a repeatable reference point...............or simply for changing wands & resetting VTA height to match different height cartridges, trying different height platter matts, or accomodating varying record thicknesses.

NEW

TomaHawk Wand

The new wand is setup similar to the carbon wand, differing in the following aspects:

Fore & aft adjustment is made by sliding the wand in the bearing. There is along slot to accommodate this. Loosen the capscrew on the base first.

Setting the azimuth is done by simply screwing the Twin Point Pivots in or out until the top of the wand is parallel to the record surface:

Setting the Vertical Tracking Force:

Ensure the brass counterweight is fully screwed in so it butts up against the black delrin pillar. Loosen the aluminium thumbscrew so the whole tail assembly moves in the slot & position to just over the tracking weight you are trying to achieve. Tighten the tailpiece in this position with the thumbscrew ensuring the thread faces rearward. Screw out the brass counterweight for fine adjustment until the correct tracking weight is reached.

Optional Digital VTA Display

For the enthusiasts requiring repeatable accuracy of 0.01mm  resolution, an optional VTA digital display is available for £30. This is retrofittable onto the back of the RCA block.

Optional Gantry

A new option to be used with 4N silver shielded wire. The Gantry is held in place by the connector block screw. This will also work with the optional VTA display. The wire is held in the gantry by the grommet which slides into a wire loop.

Slider Orientation

Ensure the grooves in the slider & manifold are lined up facing the same way. This will ensure air cushion is working to maximum efficiency.

 

A Note on  the Cueing Device & Operation

This has been designed to have a wide range of operation independant of the VTA height. However, you will manually need to limit its movement. This is one of the minor irritations with the Terminator design as the window of operation for the cue adjustment is small. To increase it would mean it would encroach on the counterweight.

 

Once the stylus touches the record, do not carry on pushing the lever down to its full travel or you will foul the straps & stop the slider from sliding! It becomes second nature once you understand its operation.

The 'stiffness' of operation can be adjusted by tightening of loosening the pivot screw. Only a slight tweak is necessary.

Important:  Position the stylus over the groove by moving the sliding saddle itself, not the headshell or wand! 

 

Playing a record

Plug wand wire connectors into socket (red on red) ensuring wires are dressed in such a way so they won’t cause tension / interference, and  are not dragging across the plinth or record surface. They may need to be twisted one way or another so the wire forms an arch. Ensure blade-bearing is centered in the saddle straps.

Note: with time you may notice the blade migrating towards the right. This is invariably happens if you return the saddle to its rest position with too much force so it bumps against the adjustment plate causing blade to shift a little. Just return gently & periodically check the blade remains centered.

Connect up your interconnects to the RCA block. Lower stylus onto start of record GENTLY. Be prepared for stylus to skate inward or outward due to dynamic forces acting on the stylus such as dishing of the platter. These need to be compensated for by tweaking the thumbscrews slightly to counteract. Similarly, at the runout grooves, the stylus may have a tendency to bounce back. In this case, a slight tweak of level in the opposite direction should sort it. A compromise position needs to be reached between the skating inwards at the start, & bounce back at the end. If you are unable to adjust this satisfactorily, re-dress the wires as they are introducing tension.

Note 1: the sensitivity to level of these airbearing tonearms takes some getting used to & can be a source of frustration during set-up, especially if you have been used to a pivot arm. Keep at it.....I can assure you it will be worth it! Once you get the feel of how the slider reacts to tiny tweaks, it becomes second nature.

Note 2: when unplugging wand connector be sure to grasp by the insulation sleeves covering the connectors, not the wires!

Note 3: Take care when placing & removing record from platter. Coming from a pivot arm where there is no obstruction the tendancy may be to lift the record straight off. If you do this with Terminator, you will damage the record,Terminator or both! LP's need to be eased into place by sliding under  the carrier & dropping onto spindle. There is approximately 4cm clearance so its not like threading a needle! Just needs to be pointed out! Again, after familiarisation, it becomes second nature.

 

Further Tweaks

If the stylus it tracking reliably, you should see the saddle swaying to & fro smoothly with eccentric records. There should be no strain on the stylus, which should remain stationary relative to the cartridge body. You can try turning the air pressure down at the pump until it starts snagging, then raise it a little.

As mentioned at the start, the pump can be boxed to reduce noise, but leave a hole for air to get in…..it must not be airtight or the pump will starve of air & the arm will mistrack.

 

Troubleshooting causes of mistracking

The carriers are thoroughly tested before dispatch, so if you’re getting mistracking it is most likely something to do with set-up.

Most common causes are:

1. Carrier out of level, or TT not level. The platter & carrier must be in the same horizontal plane.
2. Wire from wand dragging or twisted to exert a tensioning force.
3. Dirt/debris on saddle or carrier.
4. Slider & manifold orientation different.
5. Air supply problem…..eg.,leaky hose, smoothing tank or insufficient air pressure. Ensure pump intake not blocked!
6. Cue lever fouling wand or saddle straps.
7. Insufficient tracking force. 

 

A note on 'bounce-back':

At the end of a record side, you may experience a tendancy for the wand to bounceback. This may be due to tension in the wires pulling on the wand, dishing of the platter, or something not level.

Check levels again.

Dress wire so it is not pulling. You may need to twist the connector clockwise or anti-clockwise to counteract.

If the above fails, apply a slight compensating tilt to the manifold. Then check you haven't applied too much if the wand skates inwards at the start of the record!

 

Setting up the Air Supply

The air supply needs to be sorted by connecting the 2 or 4 outlets (depending on which model pump you have) to the back of the smoothing tank. To reduce noise, the pump can either be placed in a different room, boxed in, or placed in foam lined cupboard. I have mine positioned near a mains outlet which I switch off when not in use, but of course, you are free to come up with your own arrangement. Some have placed another room,  in the basement or under floorboards!

In this section I have gone through the stages of DIYing the smoothing tank & pump connections in case you have elected to purchase your tonearm without these elements.

I use a Sera 550 aquarium pump with adjustable output. I run this at half power. Any equivalent aquarium pump will do. In the US, my son runs a Rena 400 which is widely available & inexpensive.

Note Update: The newest Terminators using the chrome polished manifolds required much less are pressure. I am now using SERA 275 (275LPH). Depending on the weight of the cartridge, in my set-up this runs on minimum to half way so is probably putting out more like 150LPH.

For the smoother tank (necessary to smooth out the pulsations from the pump) I use a 5litre (approx 1 gallon) plastic petrol can available from most car parts shops, or something similar. The volume must be over a litre.

You will also need a drill, 4mm drill bit, a M5 x 0.7mm thread tap & superglue gel:

Drill 2  x 4mm holes, one in the lid, & one in the back of the tank:

Replace the drill bit with the M5 tap, & gently tap both holes at slow speed. Reverse to remove.

Trim away flash with sharp blade:

Run superglue around threads of adaptor:

Screw adaptor into hole. Tighten gently with pliers or spanner so its snug, but not too tight so as to strip threads.

The smoother tank is now complete. While this is drying, prepare the pump. You need some 4mm internal diameter plastic hose (available from aquarium shops). Cut 6 lengths of approx 4-6 inches.

The 4 outputs from the pump need to converge into 1. Connect Y fittings which come with the pump as shown:

The other end of the tank finally connects to tonearm block:

I have housed my pump in the same room as the hi-fi, but boxed it in a cupboard surrounded by foam. It is perfectly unobtrusive:

 

Dimensions

Weight approx 600g

 

 

Nomenclature